Grace Goes to Hong Kong

my grand adventure

2007-03-29T18:49:00.001-07:00

In March 2007, the Hong Kong International School invited me for 14 days to visit their school (I'm a children's book author/illustrator). It was my first time in Hong Kong and my hosts were extremely gracious in showing me around. This blog catalogues my days there. I have done a little editing from my original posts to make it easier for those reading this for the first time. For your reading convenience, I've listed the posts so my first posta are at the top and you scroll to my last, so it is in order as you read down. Also, I've changed the order of some posts placing them where they make they make the most contextual sense (rather then when I wrote it). I hope you enjoy this and my other blogs which I will write when I (hopefully) get more opportunities to travel!

far travels

2007-03-29T18:47:00.000-07:00

Did I tell you? I'm going to Hong Kong on Friday.

Yes, I am. The Hong Kong International School and the Man Festival invited me out there for the next 14 days, I think due to the attention that author Roseanne Thong (who lives in HK) has gotten there for the books we did together. Thanks, Roseanne!

But the trip is a little bittersweet. It's been in the works for a while; originally Robert was going to come with me and it was going to be a grand adventure. Unfortunately, he now can't come and I am left to my lonesome.

So, go I will. And I am determined to still make it an adventure, even though I admit to being a bit intimidated trying to explore Hong Kong by my lonesome. Luckily, the HKIS and SCBWI coordinators have graciously offered their guidance--which I am SO going to take them up on. Boy, are they going to regret that. I've declined to tell them about one of my most annoying traits--my love of vacation photography. I am the worst Asian sightseer off the tour bus, clicking away and always asking people to take a photo of me in front of some iconic monument. That's the one thing Robert said he's glad he's going to miss.

honorably arrived

2007-03-29T18:44:00.001-07:00

These are my feet in Hong Kong. I'm here (or there, depending on where YOU are), honorably arrived as they say in Japan.

And it was an honorable arrival. I have to say, HKIS sure treats you well. For the first time, I had one of those smart looking drivers holding up a sign with my name on it at the airport. And then I rode off in a fancy black limo. When I arrived at the hotel, I could see all the passerbyers watching thinking I might be a celebrity. I hated to disapoint them, for not only was I far from being a celebrity, I looked awful. Nothing like 17 hours on an airplane to make you look like the Wicked Witch of the West.

Also, nothing like 17 hours on an airplane to make you dull-minded. I got some HK dollars at the airport, but didn't figure out how the currency worked out. So I think I tipped the driver the equivalent of $1. and the baggage person $40. (I was trying to compensate for my $1. driver mistake). And then I got complimentary room service from the hotel; and I forgot to tip that fellow completely. Oops.

But I liked the room service. There was more fruit but I ate it before I remembered to take a picture. But notice the hot green tea. It was lovely, I had a cup before I completely collapsed into bed, asleep to the world until 5 AM Hong Kong time...

when I realized my room had a view. Isn't that neat? I'm on the 18th floor so I can see the city and the water and the rooftops. One rooftop in particular struck me:

because of the garden. There's just something poetic about a small rooftop garden like that, in the vast landscape of buildings. The inkling of story is now in my head...I might have to spend the rest of my day writing it. Good thing I have 2 weeks here.

jetlag and hong kong at micro/macro

2007-03-29T18:43:00.001-07:00

After waking up at 5AM, I went back to sleep at 8, woke up at 10, back to sleep at 11, woke up at 11:30 and decided I had better try to do something or else my jetlag was going to suck my day away. And I'm on an adventure, right? Adventure doesn't wait for sleep (though jet-lagged children's illustrators do easily succumb to it). So, I dragged myself out of my hotel room and into the street.

It was 70 degrees out there! Good thing I left my jacket in the room. I wandered the area around my hotel, which is a prime shopping district. So far, Hong Kong feels like an enormous, very modern, very clean Chinatown.

Of course, that is the micro view of it. I decided I had better get the big picture so I took advantage of SCBWI coordinator Mio's offer to take me to Victoria's Peak...

and got the macro view of it. Also, a nice view of I.M. Pei's Bank of China, the "sting ray" convention center and Norman Foster's special building that has the best feng shui of the city. I only know this because Robert especially pointed them out to me before the trip and said to look for them.

The sun was just starting to go down, so Mio and I decided to have dinner until it got dark so I could see the city all lit up. We went to the Peak Lookout Restaurant (that's Mio below. She doesn't like to have her picture taken which is why she is mysteriously shrouded in darkness)...

where I opened up the menu to see:

Boston Lobster! Gee, I traveled half way around the world to get Boston lobster! I'm sure it was quite good, even though I didn't order it because, heck, it came all the way from Boston. Probably not the freshest, though. Maybe that's why it was a "supplement."

Anyway, we spent so long with dinner that I forgot to go back to the lookout view to take the night photo I had planned. So instead I took the picture from my hotel room, where I am now about to fall asleep yet again. Here's hoping that I can stay awake for more than 3 hours at a time tommorrow.

today's junk

2007-03-29T18:42:00.001-07:00

It's a well known truism that viewing other people's vacation photos is rather dull. But, I'm not on a vacation. I'm working! Today I did a full day of visits at HKIS.

Where I had two lovely suprises waiting for me in the teacher's lounge. First:

a gigant-normous amount of books for me to sign. This was rather aweing. The other was on the magazine shelf:

and it was bluerosegirl Linda! Linda had been featured in a magazine in the States and it had made its way here in Hong Kong. Neat! She's an international cover girl.

After school, the HKIS coordinator, Amy took me to some fun places around the city. First, I went to a tailor to get some clothes made (more about that later) and then we rode on an authentic junk. It was amazing; and because it was kind of misty and grey out, we were the only people onboard--so it was like our own private boat. As we passed the ports, people took pictures of us, well, probably, really of the junk. But we felt like celebrities.

The sun set during our ride and the city really glowed with lights. It was quite beautiful.

I only wish I had had the sense to take a photo of the junk before the sun had set, as the only pictures I have of it are shrouded in shadows. But it was very exciting for me to experience...which means it was probably really boring for you to read. Be glad I didn't post the whole camera-memory card.

two tart day

2007-03-29T18:41:00.003-07:00

Today started with two egg tarts.

But these tarts were not just any tarts. These were AMAZING egg tarts. I've never had egg tarts this good ever. The crust was so light and flaky and the tops had been broiled so there was a light burnt sugar coating. Absolutely delicious. They put all the egg tarts I've ever eaten to shame.

And apparently they are world famous, flown in from Macau and only available in Hong Kong at the hotel I am staying in! I am trying to figure out how I can bring some home to Robert.

After the such a delicious start, my visit at the school seemed to pass sweetly. Even though I usually fear presenting to grades 6-8, today's presentation to the 7th graders seemed to go pretty smoothly. Before I knew it, school was out and it was time to explore Central Hong Kong where I got a better view of:

The famous Bank of China, designed by I.M. Pei. This eye-catching skyscraper is actually pretty disliked by many native Hong Kong--because it gives out BAD feng shui. The many angles cut the good luck and the reflective surfaces reflect all the bad luck out into the public. Unlike this building:

the HSBC designed by Norman Foster. Apparently this building has the best feng shui of the city--but more to do with the location than the design. But this building is well liked because the structure can move--the entire floors of the building can be shifted up or down. And see those bridge like things? If the building catches on fire or a disaster happens inside, people can stand on those. Not very comfortably--I think it's single file-- but with the idea that it would be someplace for them to escape to while they wait for help.

And just a couple miles away, in great contrast to these ultra-modern buildings is:

the Man Mo Temple. I'm not sure how old it is but I know parts of it date to the 1800's. This temple mixes Taoism and Buddhism and is beautiful in its ancient mystery.

See the coils? Those are incense coils. The whole place was filled with incense smoke--which while adds the the visual beauty made it very difficult to spend a long time there. I wasn't able to really see the things I wanted because, well, I couldn't breathe. Also, I had to rush to do this:

Yep, be on TV! I was on a Hong Kong TV show called "What's Up after 8?"; one of the few English language chat shows, as well as on a cross-media interactive TV channel (people can e-mail the show live as well as watch it via the internet). It was VERY last minute...and I think I smelled of incense.

fine dining

2007-03-29T18:41:00.001-07:00

I'm doing a quick post this morning because I was too tired to blog last night. And why was I too tired? Because I went out to a fancy dinner at the exclusive China Club. This restaurant was once owned by David Tang, Hong Kong's equivalent to Donald Trump (David Tang also used to be the owner of Shanghi Tang, the uber-expensive, extremely coveted chinoiserie store that all the celebs shop at). David Tang has moved on to other businesses since, but the China Club remains a swanky destination restaurant.

Which I was only lucky enough to go to because I gave a talk to the local SCBWI who took me out to dinner afterwards. At the talk, I met Roseanne Thong for the first time! I've been the illustrator for 3 of her books and her work in getting those books noticed in Hong Kong played a vital role in getting me this exotic gig. So I was very grateful to meet her and she is a super nice person to boot.

The China Club was very snazzy. Modeled after an English gentleman's club of the 1930's, it's a tasteful blend of the British and Chinese old and new world. It has many floors:

and many separate private dining rooms, including a library:

and original art by contemporary Asian artists adorn all the walls:

And the food is amazing! Here's a photo of some othe desserts we had. Mango pudding (that was luscious) and custard filled gelatinous fish. Can you tell they are fish? They were really neat looking in real life.

There was also a balcony with an upclose view of that I.M. Pei building, it's right across which means all the bad luck of the building is getting reflected onto the China Club. I wonder if David Tang sold the restaurant because he didn't want the bad feng shui.

Stanley

2007-03-29T18:40:00.001-07:00

Today started out leisurely, as my first presentation did not begin until 10:40. However, about 5 minutes before it was time for me to head out to school, I had a panic attack that I had lost my passport. Last night's late return had made me careless and I couldn't remember which "safe" place I had put it. I unsuccessfully searched my hotel room in the time I had left and had to leave in a state of anxiety. I ended up being late for my presentation as well (my taxi driver brought me to the wrong place), so any calm my morning relaxation should have brought was quickly lost.

However, I slowly began to regain it as we visited the Stanley area after school. Stanley is the coastal area, a one-time fishing village. In the mist, one can still see solitary sampans gliding across the waters.

It is also home to the Tin Hau Temple, a temple appropriately dedicated to the goddess of the sea.

Even though I would've like to look at more of the temple in detail, I always feel awkward examining a place where people worship. It seems rather rude to gawk at it like the tourist I am. So we only glanced around briefly.

But, to be honest, the biggest attraction in Stanley is the SHOPPING! There are hundreds of stalls selling everything and anything. I could look around for hours and spend every red cent I've made coming here on the available goods.

And I just might do that. Already, I've bought this cute tiger backpack and this painting; and I want to go back for more. Hmm, I might need to buy another bag just to pack all my stuff in for when I go back. If I CAN get back that is. Still have to find that passport.

kowloon markets

2007-03-29T18:38:00.001-07:00

Yesterday evening I went to Kowloon. For some reason I thought Kowloon was far, far away but as we got there in a fairly short subway (MTR) ride, I realized--oh, Kowloon is like Cambridge is to Boston. Just over (er, under) the water. The subway system in Hong Kong is immaculate--no food or drink is allowed onboard, everything is sparkling, clean and FAST. People can have their passes in their watches and just wave their arm through the turnstyle--like easy pass for humans. And a train comes every 2 minutes, max. Also, I noticed everything is built for slightly shorter people. In the T in Boston, I can barely reach the top holding bar, here the bar is an easy grasp.

Anyway, I reached Kowloon (with the wonderful Roseanne Thong as my guide) and our first stop was the flower market. Hundreds of stalls full of flowers lined what felt like street after street. Kowloon has less of the British influence, English was less widely understood and the city, compared to Hong Kong island, seemed less modern, more old world--with crotchey street vendors, dirtier streets, and more chaotic crowds. And beautiful, beautiful flowers. A true rainbow and the smell of lilies filled the air.

At the end of the flower market, we went through this little passage and entered the Bird Market.

Which is where people go and buy birds, bird cages and bird supplies. Birds and goldfish seem to be the pets of choice here in Hong Kong, where space is quite limited. Birds seem to be especially popular with old men, who can be seen carrying their bird cages. They like to take their birds out for a walk.

The bird cages themselves are works of art. Handmade, intricately carved of bamboo or rosewood, I found myself staring at each one. In the end, I couldn't resist and bought one as a souvenir. I don't know how I'm going to get it home.

The sun was setting, so that meant the night markets were opening. Here, you can buy pretty much everything, from food to fruits to footwear. Vendors here like to bargain and I watched a customer and vendor sputter at eachother in Cantonese as if they were angry, but both left smiling and seemed satisfied. I bought a Monkichi t-shirt for Ki-Ki. Luckily, Roseanne speaks Cantonese and was able to do the appropriate bargaining for me.

The market was just getting into full swing when we left. But my arms were full with the birdcage and I couldn't carry another thing, so it was time to go. I thought I might look a sight carrying the cage on the subway, but no one gave me a second glance. I suppose the only unusual thing was that I didn't have a bird in it.

big buddha day

2007-03-29T18:37:00.004-07:00

Today was the day I have been most looking forward to ever since arriving in Hong Kong. It was the day that Amy (my ever-gracious HKIS guide) and I were going to go see the Big Buddha!

Located on Lantau, this enormous statue is a little bit of a trek from Hong Kong. But not too bad--it was only one MTR ride to Tung Chung Terminal where we got on the Ngong Ping Skyrail. This 25 minute gondola ride would be the fastest way to the Big Buddha.

And it was also the most picturesque. At first I was a bit disapointed that our morning was cool and misty, but as we traveled I enjoyed the atmosphere the mist gave the surroundings. There were moments that the skyrail disapeared into the fog.

And the countryside below was visible most of the time. Below I could see the lush greenery, the mountains and water from a viewpoint unmatched. See that pathway?That's the hiking trail to Big Buddha. It stretched all over the landscape, like a miniture version on the great wall. I also saw incredibly fit people walking on it.

And from the tram, I got my first glimpse of the buddha. A solitary figure, through silver-grey clouds.

The skyrail dropped us off at Ngong Ping village, which was a strangely Disneyfied Chinese village. It had all the tiled roofs and latticed windows of traditionals Chinese buildings, but had Italian gelato stores and Starbucks. However, I have to admit, I enjoyed these modern amenities-- I am too spoiled not to take advantage of things like western toilets and bottled water.

From there, if you want to see the buddha up close, you have to climb many, many stairs. It is part of the Po Lin Monastary and it is half way up the mountainside.

Did I mention there were many stairs? 268, to be exact. I didn't count, I looked it up afterwards. It was a tad bit tiring.

But it was worth it.

eating and eating

2007-03-29T18:37:00.003-07:00

For the first time ever, I ate at a speakeasy; a term given to private dining restaurants mainly hidden from the public. These restaurants are usually not legal (no boards of health certificates!), very small (sometimes just someone's kitchen), with a fixed menu (you get what you get!) and extremely delicious. The speakeasy we went to was no exception to the last...but I'm getting ahead of myself.

Amy's fun-filled merry colleagues (including Nat & Jen Whitman, whose mother happens to be Margaret Read MacDonald whom I had dinner with at ALA--small world!!) reserved us all a table and dinner at Club Qing. This had to be done at least seven days in advance.

We went to Lan Kwai Fong, the very hip, cool, club and bar section of Hong Kong. The young and beautiful walk these streets, in high heels and designer clothes; and a local pharmacy advertises that it has viagra and condoms in very big letters (wish I had taken a photo of that!). And hidden so well that Amy and I couldn't find it and had to call Nat, was a red metal door that led you to an elevator...

to Club Qing:

where I had what I imagine will be the closest eating experience as I'll ever have to Iron Chef. I ate things such as White Bunapi Mushrooms with Truffle Sauce, Scallop and Cheese Roll with Crataegus & Kiwi Sauce and Coconut & Papaya with Shellfish Soup--all gastronomical delights. Before each course, the chef came out and told us what each dish was with tips on how to eat it. So a bit of Top Chef, too.

After gorging myself on the 8(!) courses, I decided that they should call them sleepeasy restaurants, because I just went home a rolled into bed with a food coma.

But I woke up the next morning up and eager for....

Yep, dim sum! We went for another fun and stomach filled meal. But it's Hong Kong, and I can't leave Hong Kong without having dim sum, right? That would be sacrilegious.

And when we got our bill of $1166, my companions lit up. Apparently it's a very lucky number and bodes well for the rest of our day. I like that, having some good luck around is always nice. Though, I think we already gave the restaurant theirs.

space

2007-03-29T18:37:00.001-07:00

After dim sum, we went for a short walk to Hong Kong Park, a beautiful, calm green space tucked in the hectic city. The park boast of fountains, leafy green trees, blooming flowers, whistling birds and an artificial lake home to colorful koi and turtles, who were in hiding because of the light rain. Its very lushness makes quite a strange juxtaposition with the towering modern buildings that surround and dwarf it.

It was Sunday, so that meant it was the day of wedding photography. There is so little green space in Hong Kong that all engaged couples take their photos ahead of time at the park--it's one of the few picturesque places. Since it was slightly drizzling, there weren't as many brides as there normally are. We only counted six. I wondered what they do when the days are fine and the place is packed with brides. Take turns in front of the lake, I suppose. Maybe there's a number system.

But their finery makes a stark contrast with the Filipino ladies sitting underneath the HSBC building whom we saw on our way home. Sunday is the day these low-income wage earners have off; most of them have no private space to relax in. So, they create their own in public areas--like underneath overpasses and buildings. I'm told every Sunday enormous masses gather here, sitting on flattened cardboard--talking and gossiping. Underneath the HSBC, their words echo into nonsensical chatter and they seem to me to be the birds of Hong Kong's giant concrete trees.

charm

2007-03-29T18:36:00.001-07:00

Within walking distance of the school, there is Tin Hau Temple--another temple devoted to the Goddess of the Sea (I suppose an island depending mainly on the fishing industry figured they couldn't have enough of those)--which I saw today for the first time.

It is rather large, almost as if bits and pieces have been added over time--a pavilion here, a walkway there, a statue somewhere there. It is actually pretty disorganized and slightly shabby. The smoky, mysterious atmosphere that I have seen in the other temples is nowhere in sight. The statues and colors are, in fact, rather garish.

And I loved it. I had no expectations of this place, it wasn't in any of my guidebooks or lists. But there was an intangible charm to it that is hard to describe. The unplanned design, the bright colors, the new cartoon-styled statues next to ancient stone carvings gave the whole temple an unpretentious air. It made you feel not in awe, but welcomed. It felt like people had loved it and still did.

Adding to its appeal, was this longevity bridge. According to the plaque, crossing the bridge adds three days to your life. It was a very well-worn bridge.

My camera was running out of batteries, so I didn't take as many pictures of it as I wanted. I'm going to have to go back. I've been searching on this trip for inspiration for a new book and I think I may have just found the perfect setting. The colors, the bridge--it's as if they were waiting for me to place them in a book. I can feel images wanting to be painted. Maybe the reason I crossed the ocean was to see this place, answering the call of the Goddess of the Sea.

blue dress

2007-03-29T18:34:00.000-07:00

Women in Hong Kong are very stylish. Every woman I saw looked so polished and put together. There were no dragging too-long pantlegs, too-tight waistbands or oversized shirts. Everything perfectly fitting and flattering.

And the reason for this is that people here get their clothes regularly tailor-made. Comparably affordable, if the whole suit, dress and outfit is not made from scratch; clothes are at the very least impeccably altered. Men also have flawlessly fitting clothes, the only people who look disheveled are the tourists.

My two week stay was just enough time to upgrade me from messy tourist to potentially well-groomed ex-pat. But I had to work fast. Amy, almost immediately upon my arrival, brought me to a tailor where we discussed and designed until the blue dress was finally decided on.

Patricia, the tailor, then had me back in a couple days later for a fitting. It was neat to see the dress in the rough stage, with hundreds of white temporary stitches.

And now the dress was done (that's Patricia standing next to me). I heart it, even though I'm not sure when I'm going to wear it. I'm going to have to get Robert to take me out somewhere. Or maybe I'll save it for my next trip to Hong Kong.

dining directions

2007-03-29T18:33:00.000-07:00

I can’t believe I have been here in Hong Kong for over a week. Well, actually, I do because I am starting to get a feel for the city—something that, for me, takes time.

But just a start. Last evening I was left to my own navigational devices, leading Linda Sue Park and Gail Carson Levine to what was promised to be the best Chinese food in Hong Kong (I know, I keep such impressive company when I am in Hong Kong! That all fades away when I return to the US and my most frequent visitor is the UPS man). They had just arrived a couple days before, so I felt that I (being the most senior Hong Kong visitor) should steer the way.

Unfortunately, while you can take the girl out of the US, you still can’t take the direction dysfunction out of the girl. My mystical “I’ll find my way using the force” didn’t work here in Hong Kong any better than it does in the States, so we were wandering up and down the street for a bit. No one recognized the street address, and try pronouncing D’agulier Street to a Cantonese person. They had no idea what I was saying.

But we did eventually find the Ning Po restaurant (more thanks to Linda Sue and Gail’s cell phone then me) which was highly, highly praised from one of the foodie teachers, who also included a list of the best dishes to get.

And it may just be the best Chinese food in Hong Kong. It was incredibly delicious—the dou miao (Chinese greens) was the hands down favorite which we almost fought over. If you are ever in Hong Kong, this restaurant is extremely recommended. Just don’t ask me how to find it.

discovering dragonfruit

2007-03-29T18:31:00.002-07:00

It was really neat to taste things in Hong Konh that I can't get in the States. Some things, like certain fruits, are not allowed to be imported (because of the fruit flies) such as wax apples(left) and mangosteens.

Mangosteens are these interesting fruits with a deep, dark purple (almost black) peel. The peel is hard and thick and when you hold a mangosteen in your hand it feels like a you are holding a stone.

But underneath the thick skin-- almost in direct contrast-- is the whitest, softest fruit. It is the sweetest fruit I've ever tasted, with just a hint of tartness.

This fruit is in sections, like an orange. But there's a trick to the mangosteen. If you flip it over, you'll see a flower shaped pattern on the bottom. As many "petals" are on the flower is how many sections of fruit is in the mangosteen. And they're all delicious.

The other fruit that I've eaten before but never really seen, and especially not in abundance was the dragonfruit. This fruit is also a lesson in contrasts, as the outside is brilliant fuchsia and green, while the inside is white with black specks.

The dragonfruit has a subtle sweetness and the texture of watermelon. I love its appearance. I really want to illustrate a book about why the dragonfruit is called a dragonfruit. I haven't found too much about that, maybe I'll just make a story up!

Another discovery is pomelo soup! I had the most amazing bowl of this dessert soup, made from pomelo,mango and coconut milk when I was at dim sum at a restaurant called Metropol(I'm not sure about the spelling). It was my first taste of it and it was so fresh and light and yummy! I'm told that this soup is what the Goddess of Mercy, Kuan Yin, has in her vase. She's very popular.

Other hard-to-find delicacies include Sesame Ice cream:

And long-life peach cakes. But I confess, I did not actually try a peach cake. I was too full from eating everything else.

fine things

2007-03-29T18:31:00.001-07:00

Today I rode the famous Star Ferry to Kowloon. This ferry is a mere $1.7 HK--which is an incredible deal. Unfortunately, I didn't get to take advantage of this deal because I thought it said $17. and dropped two $10. coins in the slot before I realized my error. I really kicked myself on that as I am running low on HK cash.

In Kowloon, Amy and I went to the Jade Market, an indoor marketplace with hundreds and hundreds of stalls selling jade, jewelry and other fine things.

I was, ironically, explicited instructed NOT to buy any jade at the Jade Market. Jade has too many variables such color consistency and purity that determine its value--all of them very difficult to judge to an untrained eye. Any attempt to buy "some nice jade" would undoubtably be taken advantage of by the ruthless bargaining vendors.

So instead, I stuck to the lesser value objects, such as the vegetable ivory carvings. These hand-carved figurines are made from a Tagua nut; it has a similiar appearance to ivory and no elephants were de-tusked.

With my wallet empty and my hands full of Tagua nut souvenirs, we went to the Pennisula, the "Grand Old Lady of Kowloon" hotel, for the high tea served in their opulent lobby.

It was very British, complete with delicate cucumber sandwiches and scones. I felt very aristocratic, nibbling on my crust-less triangles of bread and sipping tea poured from real silver teapots. Suddenly, my chagrin of losing $18. from the Star Ferry seemed so bourgeois.

commute

2007-03-29T18:29:00.000-07:00

Yesterday was my last day of school presentations at HKIS. So I decided to mark the occasion by cataloguing my commute from the hotel to the school. For the past week, I've gotten up in the morning and caught a taxi like this:

Once I get a cab, I hand the driver this piece of paper, which is the address of the school in Chinese. Most drivers don't speak English, so the written address is essential.

Then I am driven through the congested city,

pass the cemetary,

and into the countryside towards Repulse Bay.

On the way, this building always strikes me. It was recently renovated, the whole pastel part was just added. The hole is built to ensure good feng shui. Apparently when a building is against the mountain a hole allows the dragon to still come out. Poetic, isn't it? However, I also heard a story that the developer saw something like this in Disneyland and just copied it for his own building. I hope that the motivation for the hole is the former, not the latter. Then I can forgive that awful peach color.

Finally, I drive pass Repulse Bay,

and up the mountain,

where I reach the Hong Kong International School. For the past 6 days, arriving there has given me a strange sense of homecoming. I'm rather sad that I won't be doing the commute again.

Gai See: What I Saw

2007-03-29T18:27:00.000-07:00

As I mentioned before, in Hong Kong I had the pleasure of meeting Roseanne Thong's;and I also got to see her new book, Gai See: What You See in Chinatown. Now while the title of the book says, What You See in Chinatown, it is fairly obvious that the book is about the Hong Kong open air wet markets. The "Chinatown" addition to the title was done by marketing, so that it would it appeal to the greater public.

Which I think underestimates the children's book audience. This book is a real treat; and, even more, it truly captures what a Hong Kong open air market feels like. It's rare that one can test the authenticity of a book, but I was able to do so and it passed with flying colors. Take this excerpt, for example:

Mangoes, starfruit,
colors bright
glisten in the morning light.

Dragon fruit
with scarlet scales,
lychees filling woven pails

Doesn't it just match this exactly?

And then there's images like this:

The book so exactly matches my experiences in Hong Kong that I can't imagine any child not finding delight in it. The only thing that was not included was the fascinating aspects of the fish market, where live fish jumped in the air.

Roseanne told me that she did have passages dedicated to that but they were edited out, probably in fear that that it would seem barbaric. Which it is a bit, to our western sensibilities, but is also a significant part of the culture of a Hong Kong wet market. Of course, the book is not about a wet market, it's about "Chinatown," so I suppose the deletion has validation.

Regardless, this book is just plain great. I'll never look at it without remembering what I saw in Hong Kong; I hope you all take a look at it and see what I saw too.

coming to an end

2007-03-29T18:25:00.000-07:00

My Hong Kong adventure is winding down and the end is within sight. I leave tommorrow after a whirl-wind last day of presentations, possible interview, workshop and dinner (my plane leaves at 1 AM!). This will probably be my last post actually in Hong Kong. It's been a wonderful time. I've made new friends, taken over 700 photos, gained weight and have a whole extra bag of stuff to bring back. All the signs of a grand adventure.